January 24, 2010

 

Yellowstone County – Your Ancestral Past Trail Series

Out in the Boonies (Trip #19 )

Tee Pee Rocks and 1886 Inscription Rock (HD)

 

 

Pompeys Pillar by Vikki Grey

By Cleve Kimmel

 

This travel area is “off-limits” to the casual visitor – as a major portion of the land mass is being transferred (April-2010) to other management. It covers portions of T1N & T2N R 26E.  The land site is located north of Blair Road east of Billings and off Alexander Road. This site view is presented only to illustrate a few of the local formations unavailable to the general public. The access roads are simple age-old pasture-wagon trails used many years ago, and their indentations can barely be seen. Travel by vehicle through the State Land portions of this site’s views is prohibited! In 1874 a group of men were sent out from Bozeman to establish a Wagon Road and hopefully locate some prospecting opportunities along the way to Tongue River. These excursions are well defined in “The 1874 Invasion of Montana” by Don Weibert 1993. When these adventurers stopped at the Tee Pee site location mentioned, they took coverage among the pointed shaped rock formations – some of which also afforded an extremely great coverage of the terrain; so as to hopefully avoid any attacks. Some of these formations are about 15-20 feet tall, and perfectly circular. They were formed a millennium ago by sedimentation that created small approximately ½-inch thick layers to create the structures that are still visible today. The sandstone is very dense, but the weathering has taken its toll.

 

Additionally, there are several very unusually weather-shaped rocks that stand out and are unique to Montana. There is also a simple six-ft rock cairn constructed decades earlier that marks the high-point of the region, and was preserved over time by the land owners (original builders are unknown). This region had some of the highest homestead failures in Montana due to the very tough weather conditions that came after homesteading.

 

1- Inscription Rock Location

The formations to follow (before moving o to State Land) are located in a 320-acre portion of land being transferred as noted. Much of the land usage in this region has deteriorated from continual un-controlled expansion of Prairie Dogs. A local farm road is used to reach the site as marked.

 

This portion of the road required 4-wheel drive and about 2-3 mph top speed.

 

You can Google Earth the site to gain a better composite view of these coordinates. This site is about two miles north of the 1874 Excursion stop.

2-The rock in question looks like this….

The rock stands about 15-feet high, and the inscriptions are located within the bowl-shaped interior. There are three other rocks in this cluster – but this is the only one that has carvings.

 

As normal, the carvings are basically block letters. The stone is extremely hard, and it must have been a real chore to even put a dent into the surface.

3-Rock Face Composite

(Upper and Lower)

Initial and date carvings are created within the two bowl shapes (upper and lower half).

4- Lower Face

The 1886 date followed by HH below is in the upper corner. The other carvings are difficult to read; but the HD might be John Henry Dover, as he sometimes went by Henry. HH person hasn’t been identified.

 

Note that major flaking of the surface has eliminated a large portion of the surface. Although this appears to be a soft-flaky substrate – it is very strongly attached to the stone face!

5-Upper Face

The prevailing winds attack the rock opposite of the image shown here; and probably created the cupping shown over a very long time of erosion. Only the deeply carved H is clearly visible; and most of the layered covering shell is lost.

 

The sedimentary layers are clearly visible in this image. All the rock formations throughout this region exhibit the same degree of layering; only the shapes change.

6-View from the back-side.

The full size in noticeable in this photo with the land-owner standing alongside. Please note that the majority of the land area is relatively FLAT!

 

One can only wonder how this and the other outcroppings were created – and why?

7-Nearby Rock Formation

This interesting rock is right next to the one above, but no inscriptions. Again, it looks soft – but alas, it’s hard as a rock (pun).

 

It is about eight feet high.

8-View of Pryor Mountains

From these rock formations the Pryor Mountains (snow-capped in the distance) are clearly visible. Note the lack of vegetation.

 

From here we will be traveling southwest over private land to the 1874 stopping point at their camp site located currently on State Land and home of the Teepee rock formations.

9-Map of the Teepee formation Locations

This land site is restricted to foot traffic only & is available for view.

 

You can enlarge the image to read about the access & restrictions. The trail runs along side of the ranch-land next to a fence.

 

Entering from here is a ‘single person-access’ gate and you are about one mile from the Teepee rocks (dogs are welcome to accompany you). There are numerous rock mounds that resemble Teepees in the area: and the largest grouping photos of the rocks near the center of the land are not published here. Refer to Don Weibert’s book for a detailed image provided by Mrs. A C Stohr.

10-Rock Encampment of 1874 Explorer’s

These rock out-croppings are about 4-5 feet high, and about 100-feet long. They are at the perimeter edge of a slight hillside that overlooks the valley floor and offers excellent protection from potential attacks. None occurred here during the explorer’s trek; but residual evidence shows that they spent some time here.

 

The larger rock in the foreground is split in two, and has a gap about 10-inches wide running the full length. Several decades ago, one of the newly born calves, which happened to be blind in one eye, mistakenly entered the crack in search of some ‘tasty green grass’, and became wedged tight! In its frantic attempt to pass through it scratched up numerous tin cans and other trappings from the soft sandy soil underneath. When the rancher discovered the dead body, he also found the numerous artifacts that were unearthed. The tin cans were of the type manufactured prior to 1870; as they had their ends sealed with lead. It was then apparent that the explorers must have spent some time at this safe haven during their route to Tongue River.

 

This route is about five miles west of the Yellowstone Stage Road that was in service from 1877 until replaced by other transportaion.

11-Closeup view of the split in the rock

This was were the canned food tins were discovered.

12-Rock Cairn

No trek can be complete without a nearby rock cairn. The story goes that one of the early homesteader families had some eager children, who wondered if there were Indian remains buried under the rock formation. Thus they tore it down, finding nothing they left the stones where they discarded them. The parents, however, had different ideals – and they made the boys rebuild the cairn ‘just as they found it.’

 

The cairn is about six-feet tall, and constructed from the surface rock. Some thought that it might have been an earlier sheepherder monument; but no other details exist.

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Katy Hestand
Yellowstone County Coordinator


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